Long Island City’s transformation is one of the more dramatic in the recent history of New York neighborhoods. Twenty years ago it was primarily industrial — the kind of place where artists moved because rents were nothing and the loft spaces were enormous. Then MoMA PS1 arrived, then the waterfront parks were built, then the luxury towers followed, and now Long Island City has some of the most expensive real estate in Queens alongside some of the most significant cultural institutions in the borough.

MoMA PS1: The Essential Stop

MoMA PS1 at 22-25 Jackson Avenue is an affiliate of the Museum of Modern Art and one of the most important contemporary art institutions in the United States. The museum occupies a converted 1890s public school building and specializes in large-scale installations and emerging artists that MoMA’s more conservative curatorial approach wouldn’t accommodate. The Warm Up summer music series in the PS1 courtyard (Saturdays in summer) is one of the best free outdoor music events in New York.

Admission is $10 (free with MoMA membership). The exhibitions rotate frequently — check the website before visiting to see what’s current. The courtyard in summer, with its changing architectural installations, is worth visiting regardless of what’s inside.

Gantry Plaza State Park: The View

Gantry Plaza State Park on the East River at 48th Avenue provides the best public views of the Midtown Manhattan skyline available from any park in the five boroughs. The restored railroad gantries (the industrial structures used to transfer freight cars onto ferry barges) frame the view. The Pepsi-Cola sign — installed on the Hunters Point waterfront in 1936 and now one of Queens’ most recognizable landmarks — is visible from the park’s northern section.

The park is free, open daily, and connects south to Hunters Point South Park, which extends the waterfront promenade with additional skyline views and a public swimming area in summer. Together the two parks create one of the longest continuous waterfront park experiences in Queens.

Where to Eat

John Brown Smokehouse at 10-43 44th Drive is the best barbecue restaurant in Queens — Kansas City-style smoked meats done properly, with excellent sides and a bourbon selection that matches the food. Shi on 46th Avenue has one of the better ramen programs in the outer boroughs. M. Wells Steakhouse in the PS1 courtyard serves ambitious, Montreal-inflected cooking that has maintained quality through the neighborhood’s changes. The food options have expanded significantly as the residential population has grown.

Getting There

The E and M trains to Court Square, the 7 train to Hunters Point Avenue, and the G train to Court Square all serve Long Island City. The NYC Ferry runs from Midtown Manhattan to Hunters Point South Ferry Landing. From Times Square by 7 train: about 8-10 minutes, making it one of the most accessible outer borough destinations from Midtown.

Also see: our best LIC restaurants guide

Also see: our Noguchi Museum guide

Will

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